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This journal details Richard Ware Wyatt's four month journey from Virginia to Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana,
Ohio and Missouri on horseback from April through August, 1830. The diary has been transcribed by the dedicated hard
work of Jamie Wyatt with help from her sister, Katie Wyatt. They are the great-great-great granddaughters of R.W. Wyatt.
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[ Page 1 ] An imperfect paragon of the "Coat of Arms" of the Wyatt family taken from a defaced copy at Col Anthony News in Todd County Ky AD 1830 [ Page 2 ] April, 1830M.12 Left home for Ky. Arrived at Louisa C. H. at 1 o'clock. H.Feed---.25, bridle bit---1.75, Umbrella---$3.50 Total---5.56. Left L.C. H. at 4'oclock in company with Robert Ellis (who will be my traveling companion) arrived at John Thomsons and dined. Thence to the Ellis' and spent the night. T.13 To Mechanicsville H.Feed---12 ½ To day we are joined by Capt Beadles who will be our fellow traveller. Travelled 32 M. While journeying to day and nearly opposite William Meriwether: Ellis' horse sprung suddenly forward, which induced us to look rearwards. We there upon discovered that the cause of her fright, was the sudden approach of a dog whose appearance bespoke madness- I immediately clasped my pistol, but over persuaded, failed to shoot. We however scolded our rude would be companion, who thereupon leaped the fence, crossed a small creek just at hand, and we started but had not proceeded 20 steps, before we heard the cry of mad-dog mad-dog! The screaming of children, with the report of a gun and the gladsome sound of "Daddies killed him Daddies killed him", sprung from the mouths of several little [ Page 3 ] brats who had housed themselves in a cabin near the road. I left my two companions and proceeded to the spot where I saw the monster prostrated. Returned, and we pursued our journey. W.14 From Collin Johnsons to Mcghees (Albemarle) 17 miles. H. feed---12 ½ Thence to Wainsborough, Augusta, crossed Mitch? River and South River at Wainsborough. These Rivers empty into Shenandoah- while ? the Blue Ridge to day, how beautiful the landscape furnished on our left, the lesser mountains and vallies beneath might be seen for miles, which looks like one immense garden, and the different plantations like so many squares or divisions, astonishingly grand and beautiful. Bill at Waynsboro---87 ½ toll at rockfish gap---6 ¼ The country for several miles from Waynsborough is is level beautiful and rich. T.15 To Staunton, Augusta to breakfast at Wains' Hotel kept by Mrs. Chambers. Bill---50 Thence to Langes, Augusta 25 miles. Bill---75 Crossed North Mountains and traveled 7 or 8 miles amongst them without seeing a house or plantation, and scarcely an animate being. An abundance of "yew trees" today tall amd beautiful. Crossed the Calf pasture R. and a variety of creeks and swamps among N.M The country for several miles therefrom is level [ Page 4 ] well timbered and apparently fertile The night we lay at Langes (who is an old Frenchman) Capt. Beadles suffered great uneasiness of mind having indulged his imagination, until he concluded that he could hear the old Frenchman and his sons (of whom he had several) counting over and dividing the contents of his saddle bag and he softly whispered to us that after the division was ended, we should no doubt all be murdered. He further whispered us to listen to the pretended snoring going on in the room adjoining ours. This was done, he insisted, to induce us to believe they were asleep, but that he could nevertheless hear them whisper now and then and finally he became so exceedingly alarmed, that he hastily left his bed and deposited himself, trembling with fear, between Ellis and myself, who slept together. We laboured without effect to laugh him out of his fright. F.16 The captain seems to be greatly ashamed of his late night's cowardice and begs us not to report him to his friends when we return to Virginia. To Millers Bath 16 miles to breakfast Bill---37 ½ crossed Cow Pasture R and Jackson R. crossed Warm Spring M. which is delightfully turnpiked and 2 ½ miles over . Toll---3 passed Warm and Hot Springs viewed Bath ? to Paris, Aleghany. Bill---87 ½ [ Page 5 ] S.17 Crossed Alleghany M. tollgate---12 ½, do.12 ½. To Callahans to breakfast Bill—37 ½ Passed White Sulphur Springs. Stoped for a few moments and examined the ?. Thence to Greenbrier Bridge. Toll---12 ½. This is an elegant bridge 40 or 50 yds. in length and handsomely covered. Passed thro Lewisburg (Greenbrier C H) this county is far the most level handsome and productive we passed. Spent the night at Handleys 2 miles from Lewisburg. Bill---73 Sun 18 Had a long chat with Capt B. today on the subject of predestination, in which I find him a firm believer. Toll gate---12 ½. To J. P. Thomason's to breakfast having come from Louisa, his native county and being able consequently to give him much information respecting his friends he would receive no compensation from us. The land in this country is immensely heavily timbered. To Tyries Greenbrier. The lady of the house seems neat and decent. The landlord rough and crabbid Bill---75. Had here the breast of a fine wild turkey for supper. M.19 To Metzkers to breakfast at Nicholas Co: here the girls are now pretty busy in getting breakfast and consequently step about quite briskly not having their feet in incommoded with shoes or stockings. [ Page 6 ] For several miles from Metzkers there are huge and immense rocks which seem to tower almost to the skies and threaten destruction to the traveler, and finally we come to the immense precipice on New river or Kenhawa variously reported to be from 6 to 800 feet perpendicular height. Upon approaching its edge (which no one can do without inadvertantly falling on all fours) The raging current may be seen and heard and is apparently as white as snow. Crossed Guala just where it empties into Kenhawa over which is an excellent and beautiful bridge 170yds. in length. toll gates---19. To Mrs. Morises' Kenhawa Bill---62 ½ T.20 To Shrewsbury. Kenhawa. To breakfast---37 ½. Passed for several miles down the Kenhawa R. On either side of which are salt furnaces extending from below Shrewsbury nearby to Charleston a beautiful and improving town, immediately upon the banks of the Kenhawa, which we here crossed in a boat drawn by 2 horses. Ferriage---12 ½. Thence down the [ Page 7 ] Kenhawa to the mouth of Cole River and here a foolish adventure had well nigh lost me lost me a high price. Instead of being ferryed over as was Capt. B. I must needs try the ford and was soon in quicksand, but after much hard struggling my horse brought me out. The country about Charleston and thence the Kenhawa to mouth of Cole is rich and well timbered, indeed it is a fine and most desirable country. Staid at Teays’ on the W. side of Cole River. Bill---62 ½. Here there is a most delightful view [view] up and down the Kenhawa. W.21 Left the Kenhawa this morning [this morning] after having traversed its banks about 50 miles. The land from mouth of Cole lies well and is fertile, thus far. Breakfasted at Conners Cabel. Bill---37 ½. Passed thro. Teays valley, found the land quite good. 6 miles from Conners crossed Mud River traversed its banks for several miles and found the land level, beautiful and very rich. Recrossed Mud R. land as heretofor. Came to Guyandotte R. 6 miles below where it receives Mud River traversed its banks 1 or 2 miles and came to Guyandotte a little town on the Ohio R. just where it receives the waters of Guyandotte, and just as we reach’d town, had the pleasure of seeing 2 steam boats in full churn descending the Ohio. Bill at Guyandotte---75 Cross’d Guyandotte at its mouth. Ferriage---10 Thence down the Ohio to twelve pole, where we attempted to ferry, but had not proceeded more than halfway across before my horse seeming to forget where he was stepped one of his hind feet [ Page 8 ] out of the boat, however by holding firmly to the bridle I succeeded in keeping his 3 other feet in the boat untill by his struggling I was thrown down at the feet of the other two horses, who by this time were becoming uneasy hence I let go my hold, and the next spectacle was to behold my horse and saddle bags hurled overboard and immersed underwater. He however soon reached the shore we had just left, and my saddle bags were barely taken up before they sunk, my clothes and papers being thoroughly soaked. After reaching the shore I sent back for my horse and we soon pursued our journey to Big Sandy, just where it empties into the Ohio and here I must own a price of cowardice on my part, in not having sufficient resolution to lead my horse into the boat and hold him there till we had crossed, this I think however, may be accounted for as follows- first, the accident that had just happened and the fact that at this very ferry some three or four years ago in returning form Ky. with my father we had a horse drowned and I myself barely escaped and their having [ Page 9 ] happened so contiguously to each other, being not more than three miles apart.We however crossed safely. Ferriage---12 ½ Breakfasted at Catlets on the Ky. side of B. Sandy where we remained several hours drying my clothes, saddle, saddle bags, papers, ?, being what I had to do at this place on a former occasion and under similar circumstances. Bill---37 ½. The land from Guyandotte (where we first touch'd the Ohio R.) to B. Sandy where we leave it, is a beautiful leavel, and very rich.The R. is likewise smooth and beautiful. From Catle? Greenup, to Bells, Greenup where we staid all night, and where I promise never to stay again, if I can possibly avoid it on account of the great wickedness of the landlord and those of his household. Bill--- 62 ½. Passed over a mountainous country to day and crossed Little Sandy R. F.23 From Bells to Scot? Greenup, to breakfast. Bill---37 ½. Thence to Powers Fleming Co. Bill---62 ½. Pass’d over a rough and mountainous county to day and crossed a creek call'd Tripletts I am sure, no less than 30 times. S.24 From Powers to Elliots, Fleming Co. to breakfast. Bill---37 ½ crossed Licking R. at Elliots, thence thro. a rich tho broken country, to Fergusons Bath co. passed thro. Owingsville, Bath and crossed Slate R. twice. [ Page 10 ] Remained at Fergusons until Mon. morning, he being Ellis' relative by marriage. M.26 Thence thro Mount Sterling Montgomery Co, and Winchester Clark Co: to Wm. Blades the old acquantance of Beadles & Ellis. H. feed at P?: 12 ½ nailing on H. shoe. 10, half doz apples 6 ¼ ---28 ¾ T. 29 From Blades, thro. Lexington to Colo. Roger Quarles’ he being the joint acquantance of us all. The Colo. and his Lady are two amiable characters, both are members of the Baptist Church and seem to be pious and persevering Christians. Enjoy'd myself much in conversing upon religious subjects with them. Cross’d Elkhorn R. W. 28 To Saml. Wares, Woodford Co: to dinner remained hers until Th. Morng. T. 29 To Frankfort, Franklin Co: stoped and had our Horses fed and procceded to Wm. Wests to dinner, who lives 2 ½ m. below Frankfort upon the Ky. R. and occupies a most beautiful and commanding site. The land from Frankt. to Wests is thin and broken. Remained at [at] Wests until Sun morng. Find him and his sons remarkably kind and his daughter Catherine sociable and interesting.
May, 1830[ Page 11 ] S.2 Left Wests call'd at Methodist Ch. In Frankfort, found there was no preaching and proceeded to Willis Blantons to dinner, where we remained all night. M.3 To Saml. Wares, spent a few moments and proceeded to Versales, Woodford Co. Cigars 36 ½ dinner .50 Returned in the evening to Wares. T. 4 Started to Owen in company with Ellis, James Ware and Nancy Ware. Call'd by W. Blantons, who was to have accompanied us in order to point out to me the lines corners ? of a trace of Land in Owen belonging to my father. He had, however absented himself. Thence to Wests for Capt. Beadles- thence we all started, but had proceeded but a mile or two before (as the ? said) the road came jam up and we were all completely lost, after a litle we straightened, and fell into the main road leadinf from Frankfurt to Owenton, and presentally we were in a most awful shower of wind and rain- gave whip, and in a little time were housed in a Log Cabbin; where we remained several hours and in the evening returned to ?Mrs. Bacons, about 2 m. back, where we remained during the night and spent an ? time. [ Page 12 ] Miss Bacon (and old maid) seem's to be in high life and full of fun. Altho full of chat myself, I permitted her to indulge her ? and consequently humored her to a fraction. W.5 Left Mrs. Bacons and proceeded to Smiths, Owen. H feed---12 ½ T. 6 Thence through Owenton to Mr. Bonds who married the sister of Beadles wife and is also the relation of Ellis and myself. Left Beadles and Ellis at Bonds, and proceeded to ? Bullocks. My former Ky. Acquaintance, who had since maried the daughter of S Ware. T.6 Returned to Bonds- went to preaching to day- returned to Bonds and spent the night F.7 To Bullocks again and spent the night S.8 From Bullocks to Bonds to Breakfast. Thence started with Capt. Beadles, Ellis, James Ware and others to view and trace of Land in Owen belonging to my father. We are joined to day by Blanton who has been for several years my Fathers agent in Ky. Beadles' object in viewing the Land is: if he likes, to purchase it of me. at 2 oclock left the company and proceeded with James ware to Mrs. Bacons where we spend the night. S.9 To ? Wares to breakfast, to day go to preaching heard a sermon by-Faulkner. [ Page 13 ] From the there words, "And ye are not ye own" ? so soon as I saw the speaker I knew that I had seen him elsewhere, but could not for some time remember where, at length, however, I perfectly recollected that I saw him but the yr. before in Va where he cut very many ? shines, and about whom there were several ugly reports. Upon inquiring, I found these reports substantially correct. Returned to S Wares and spent the night. M.10 To Lexington to dinner at my relations. Mrs Lucy Gatewood where I remained all night- this evening right after Tea with Cousins Anne Gatewood and Francis Leathers from the neighborhood of Cincinnatti to Mr Mathews, where we remained until 9 o'clock, enjoying ourselves either in listening to the soft note of the flute blown by Mr Mathews or walking in his delightful garden. Returned again to Mrs. Gatewoods T.12 Left Lexington in company with Mrs. Gatewood, to visit Mrs. Stephenson our joint relative. Expences for H in Lexington 50 Returned in evening to Mrs. G and spent the night. Cijars in Lexingotn---12 ½ [ Page 14 ] W.13 From Lexington to ? T.14 To W. Blantons. Thence to Frankfort. Had the pleasure to day of viewing the inner parts of the State house which will be when completed, a splendid building. The plaistering of the Senate Chamber and Legislative Hall is beautifully formed into square, eliptical and other figures. The interior of which is beautifully and tastily cut into ? leaves. Returned in evening with James Ware to his father ? Ware. Cloth for riding breeches---3.00 Taylor for making do---1.75 F.15 Go a fishing in company with ? Ware, spent the day upon the bank of the Ky. R and catch nothing S.16 Similar employment and similar luck S.17 Went to preaching, heard a short discourse by Father Hickman while seated in his chair, and injury sustained by a fall from his H. prevented him standing. He was followed by- Faulkner, from these words, "It is appointed unto men once to die"-retun'd after sermon to L Wares. M.18 To Frankfort. H shoeing---.75 [ Page 15 ] While in Frankt to day, took an ? of the courses and distances of Land deeded by Eakin to my father, intending to survey and ? ? the land. For ? ? ? Clerck---25
T. 19 To Blantons wishing the company of James Ware. B. and I conclude not to start to Owen till evening- He arives and we are prepar'd to start when up rides Dr. Porter and Lady from Tenessee. B. insists on the postponment of our trip till morning and I agree after much reluctance. W.20 We set off ? on the Land and in company with Squire Wingate, commence the survey. run 1 ½ lines and go to Wingates to spend the night. Find the Squire ? standing he is Senator and will it is said become a candidate for Congress? living in a plain hewed log house. The planks of his loft being laid so as to admit of a free circulation of air- indeed a mouse or a sizeable rat when in a hurry to visit the lower apartments, might very easily make his descent this. most of these f???ures, without going the trackous round of the stair steps or dangerously scraping its sides- The Old Lady(the Squire's Wife) we found in countering pretty buisily a fine looking stocking. [ Page 16 ] But to see the Squire's two daughters, side by side, each with a foot upon the treadle of a Flax wheel, causing the wheel to move with almost inconcievable speed, and the Whirl to fill rapidly with spin thread, was an interesting and melting scene T.21 We return to complete the survey, Blanton presently leaves us in quest of his Compass, which he had left in the woods last evening-during his absence Wingate remarked, that we should presently be at Threakills? corner said I that is impossible we are all now about the middle of the 1000 survey, therefore no man can have a line ? near us- well sir said he, I know well that we are now in a few steps of Threakills? corner-how can that be said I- he replied the corner of the land which T. bot?: of Blanton, as the ? of yr. Father- is it possible, I replied, that B. has sold any of this land, certainly said he, some 8 or 10 yrs: ago than? been paid for it as long? – He seemed utterly astonished at my ignorance of the fact, ? said he ? his having mentioned it- ?, indeed sir, said I , it is our duty to detect vilany in any [ Page 17 ] and every shape possible, and there is vilany here, for my father is perfectly unapprised of this fact- several now inform me that Blanton has told them, that he had transmitted to my father the A?t of sales in commonwealth paper and that he had written him in return, that he should only use the money he had sent him in firing his ?, being of no use in Va. I now begin to read the man, and find that he is perfectly im??ted with ?eality, having ? that he sold land to 3 different persons, ? “G & O Sheets” and “Threakill”___ It seems a little remarkable that altho. my father had employed my Uncle Ma? Wyatt while in Ky to attend to this fund ?- and had sent out S. A. G?y for that ? purpose, each should return reporting favourably of B.? the situation of the Land- he himself had gone out, was at Bs house ? ? ?, and returned unapprised of the sale Beadles upon seeing (8th of May) the house of Threakill, expressed some astonishment to Blanton that a mere Tenant should build so good a house his reply was, that T. was not required to pay money rent. but contra? in improvement, Beadles seems delighted with the idea of having so good a house to move into, provided he should purchase, and asks if there was a good spring convenient?- Blantons reply was, no, and that he thought T. much to blame for the location- Blanton no doubt feared that [feared that] some of the company might propose going to the spring, T. might make his appearance. Beadles might begin to chat him about giving ? ? ? in case he should purchase, and thus the cat be let out of the wallet for I now find there is a first rate spring within a few steps of the house. Blanton had often written to my father that he had put upon his land several Tenants who were to occupy 5 yrs: build the necessary cabbins plant out an orchard, and clear a certain quantity of land, having the benefit of the land thus long, for their trouble ?, all which was very agreeable to my father, for not a foot of the land had been cleared when he purchased it. his object for some time had been to sell, and uncleared land would not sell___ Blanton returns with his compass and reports that he had lost the field notes, I understand this very well, he never intends that I shall see him again on the land, tho he proposes another time to complete the survey, and expresses great sorrow at having lost the field notes- I see he fears detection, and wishes to set away he however knows not the discovery I have made, we return to Wingate and at 3 o’clock Blanton J. Ware and I start for the neighborhood of Frankfort. After proceeding a mile or two, I proceed to question him as follows- Wyatt. Have you ever had an offer Mr. Blanton, either for the whole, or a part of this land? Blanton. Yes, Mr. Wyatt, but at such a reduced price, that I thought I should not be doing yr. Father justice to sell. W. Who proposed purchasing and at what price? B. Various persons and at various prices. W. Did Mr. Threakill ever propose purchasing B. Yes Mr. Wyatt. He did and we went so far as to draw an instrument of writing. But he finally begged off W. Did Mr. Sheets ever express any anxiety to purchase a part? B. Yes sir we had some little conversation on that subject, but he finally declined W. What part of the Land did Sheets seem desirous to own? B. That part adjoining him W. Tell me exactly, Mr. Blanton, how Sheets wished the lines to run B. From the B-r-a-n-c-h_____ In uttering the last word his tongue seemed to cleave to the roof of his mouth so that with great difficulty he articulated it- indeed he was convulsed from head to foot, for he clearly saw from the close and particular manner in which I questioned him, that I had been introduced into the secrecy of his villany- he seemed to be confounded and wished to be alone, I accordingly indulged him and we travelled on until near Frankfort without passing a word one other interrogative however I proposed, which I have not mentioned after he had asserted that Threakill and Sheets declined purchasing. I remarked then you have never sold any part of this land. He replied, no, not a foot never a foot Mr. Wyatt has been sold This evening, arrived at Wm Wests and remained until morning
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