Richard later lived in Charlottesville from 1851-1891 in a property he named "Clifton" near Monticello (see wyatt family history). Clifton is now a bed and breakfast outfitted with a fictional history designed to attrract tourists.
The diary is being transcribed by the hard work of three great-great-great granddaughters of R.W. Wyatt: Jamie, Kellie and Kate Wyatt.
Wyatt's Journal
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[Sketched on page 1 is the "Wyatt Coat of Arms" with the following caption:]
An imperfect paragon of the "Coat of Arms" of the Wyatt family taken from a defaced copy at Col Anthony News in Todd County Ky AD 1830. [ It should be noted that the coat-of-arms had been thrown in the fire at one point earlier in its history due to anger at the King.]
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April, 1830
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M. 12
Left home for Ky. Arrived at Louisa C. H. at 1 o'clock. H.Feed---.25, bridle bit---1.75, Umbrella---$3.50 Total---5.56.
Left L.C. H. at 4'oclock in company with Robert Ellis (who will be my traveling companion) arrived at John Thomsons and dined.
Thence to the Ellis' and spent the night.
T. 13 To Mechanicsville H.Feed---12 ½ To day we are joined by Capt Beadles who will be our fellow traveller. Traveled 32 M. While journeying to day and nearly opposite William Meriwether: Ellis' horse sprung suddenly forward, which induced us to look rearwards. We there upon discovered that the cause of her fright, was the sudden approach of a dog whose appearance bespoke madness- I immediately clasped my pistol, but over persuaded, failed to shoot. We however scolded our rude would be companion, who thereupon leaped the fence, crossed a small creek just at hand, and we started but had not proceeded 20 steps, before we heard the cry of mad-dog mad-dog! The screaming of children, with the report of a gun and the gladsome sound of "Daddies killed him Daddies killed him", sprung from the mouths of several little
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brats who had housed themselves in a cabin near the road. I left my two companions and proceeded to the spot where I saw the monster prostrated. Returned, and we pursued our journey.
W. 14 From Collin Johnsons to Mcghees (Albemarle) 17 miles. H. feed---12 ½ Thence to Wainsborough, Augusta, crossed Mitch? River and South River at Wainsborough. These Rivers empty into Shenandoah- while ? the Blue Ridge to day, how beautiful the landscape furnished on our left, the lesser mountains and vallies beneath might be seen for miles, which looks like one immense garden, and the different plantations like so many squares or divisions, astonishingly grand and beautiful. Bill at Waynsboro---87 ½ toll at rockfish gap---6 ¼ The country for several miles from Waynsborough is is level beautiful and rich.
T.15 To Staunton, Augusta to breakfast at Wains' Hotel kept by Mrs. Chambers. Bill---50 Thence to Langes, Augusta 25 miles. Bill---75 Crossed North Mountains and traveled 7 or 8 miles amongst them without seeing a house or plantation, and scarcely an animate being. An abundance of "yew trees" today tall amd beautiful. Crossed the Calf pasture R. and a variety of creeks and swamps among N.M The country for several miles therefrom is level
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well timbered and apparently fertile The night we lay at Langes (who is an old Frenchman) Capt. Beadles suffered great uneasiness of mind having indulged his imagination, until he concluded that he could hear the old Frenchman and his sons (of whom he had several) counting over and dividing the contents of his saddle bag and he softly whispered to us that after the division was ended, we should no doubt all be murdered. He further whispered us to listen to the pretended snoring going on in the room adjoining ours. This was done, he insisted, to induce us to believe they were asleep, but that he could nevertheless hear them whisper now and then and finally he became so exceedingly alarmed, that he hastily left his bed and deposited himself, trembling with fear, between Ellis and myself, who slept together. We laboured without effect to laugh him out of his fright.
F. 16 The captain seems to be greatly ashamed of his late night's cowardice and begs us not to report him to his friends when we return to Virginia. To Millers Bath 16 miles to breakfast Bill---37 ½ crossed Cow Pasture R and Jackson R. crossed Warm Spring M. which is delightfully turnpiked and 2 ½ miles over . Toll---3 passed Warm and Hot Springs viewed Bath ? to Paris, Aleghany. Bill---87 ½
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S. 17 Crossed Alleghany M. tollgate---12 ½, do.12 ½. To Callahans to breakfast Bill—37 ½ Passed White Sulphur Springs. Stoped for a few moments and examined the ?. Thence to Greenbrier Bridge. Toll---12 ½. This is an elegant bridge 40 or 50 yds. in length and handsomely covered. Passed thro Lewisburg (Greenbrier C H) this county is far the most level handsome and productive we passed. Spent the night at Handleys 2 miles from Lewisburg. Bill---73
Sun 18 Had a long chat with Capt B. today on the subject of predestination, in which I find him a firm believer. Toll gate---12 ½. To J. P. Thomason's to breakfast having come from Louisa, his native county and being able consequently to give him much information respecting his friends he would receive no compensation from us. The land in this country is immensely heavily timbered. To Tyries Greenbrier. The lady of the house seems neat and decent. The landlord rough and crabbid Bill---75. Had here the breast of a fine wild turkey for supper.
M. 19 To Metzkers to breakfast at Nicholas Co: here the girls are now pretty busy in getting breakfast and consequently step about quite briskly not having their feet in incommoded with shoes or stockings.
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For several miles from Metzkers there are huge and immense rocks which seem to tower almost to the skies and threaten destruction to the traveler, and finally we come to the immense precipice on New river or Kenhawa variously reported to be from 6 to 800 feet perpendicular height. Upon approaching its edge (which no one can do without inadvertantly falling on all fours) The raging current may be seen and heard and is apparently as white as snow. Crossed Guala just where it empties into Kenhawa over which is an excellent and beautiful bridge 170yds. in length. toll gates---19. To Mrs. Morises' Kenhawa Bill---62 ½
T.20 To Shrewsbury. Kenhawa. To breakfast---37 ½. Passed for several miles down the Kenhawa R. On either side of which are salt furnaces extending from below Shrewsbury nearby to Charleston a beautiful and improving town, immediately upon the banks of the Kenhawa, which we here crossed in a boat drawn by 2 horses. Ferriage---12 ½. Thence down the
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Kenhawa to the mouth of Cole River and here a foolish adventure had well nigh lost me lost me a high price. Instead of being ferryed over as was Capt. B. I must needs try the ford and was soon in quicksand, but after much hard struggling my horse brought me out. The country about Charleston and thence the Kenhawa to mouth of Cole is rich and well timbered, indeed it is a fine and most desirable country. Staid at Teays’ on the W. side of Cole River. Bill---62 ½. Here there is a most delightful view [view] up and down the Kenhawa.
W.21 Left the Kenhawa this morning [this morning] after having traversed its banks about 50 miles. The land from mouth of Cole lies well and is fertile, thus far. Breakfasted at Conners Cabel. Bill---37 ½. Passed thro. Teays valley, found the land quite good. 6 miles from Conners crossed Mud River traversed its banks for several miles and found the land level, beautiful and very rich. Recrossed Mud R. land as heretofor. Came to Guyandotte R. 6 miles below where it receives Mud River traversed its banks 1 or 2 miles and came to Guyandotte a little town on the Ohio R. just where it receives the waters of Guyandotte, and just as we reach’d town, had the pleasure of seeing 2 steam boats in full churn descending the Ohio. Bill at Guyandotte---75 Cross’d Guyandotte at its mouth. Ferriage---10 Thence down the Ohio to twelve pole, where we attempted to ferry, but had not proceeded more than halfway across before my horse seeming to forget where he was stepped one of his hind feet
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out of the boat, however by holding firmly to the bridle I succeeded in keeping his 3 other feet in the boat untill by his struggling I was thrown down at the feet of the other two horses, who by this time were becoming uneasy hence I let go my hold, and the next spectacle was to behold my horse and saddle bags hurled overboard and immersed underwater. He however soon reached the shore we had just left, and my saddle bags were barely taken up before they sunk, my clothes and papers being thoroughly soaked. After reaching the shore I sent back for my horse and we soon pursued our journey to Big Sandy, just where it empties into the Ohio and here I must own a price of cowardice on my part, in not having sufficient resolution to lead my horse into the boat and hold him there till we had crossed, this I think however, may be accounted for as follows- first, the accident that had just happened and the fact that at this very ferry some three or four years ago in returning form Ky. with my father we had a horse drowned and I myself barely escaped and their having
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happened so contiguously to each other, being not more than three miles apart.We however crossed safely. Ferriage---12 ½ Breakfasted at Catlets on the Ky. side of B. Sandy where we remained several hours drying my clothes, saddle, saddle bags, papers, ?, being what I had to do at this place on a former occasion and under similar circumstances. Bill---37 ½. The land from Guyandotte (where we first touch'd the Ohio R.) to B. Sandy where we leave it, is a beautiful leavel, and very rich.The R. is likewise smooth and beautiful. From Catle? Greenup, to Bells, Greenup where we staid all night, and where I promise never to stay again, if I can possibly avoid it on account of the great wickedness of the landlord and those of his household. Bill--- 62 ½. Passed over a mountainous country to day and crossed Little Sandy R.
F. 23 From Bells to Scot? Greenup, to breakfast. Bill---37 ½. Thence to Powers Fleming Co. Bill---62 ½. Pass’d over a rough and mountainous county to day and crossed a creek call'd Tripletts I am sure, no less than 30 times.
S. 24 From Powers to Elliots, Fleming Co. to breakfast. Bill---37 ½ crossed Licking R. at Elliots, thence thro. a rich tho broken country, to Fergusons Bath co. passed thro. Owingsville, Bath and crossed Slate R. twice.
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Remained at Fergusons until Mon. morning, he being Ellis' relative by marriage.
M. 26 Thence thro Mount Sterling Montgomery Co, and Winchester Clark Co: to Wm. Blades the old acquantance of Beadles & Ellis. H. feed at P?: 12 ½ nailing on H. shoe. 10, half doz apples 6 ¼ ---28 ¾
T. 29 From Blades, thro. Lexington to Colo. Roger Quarles’ he being the joint acquantance of us all. The Colo. and his Lady are two amiable characters, both are members of the Baptist Church and seem to be pious and persevering Christians. Enjoy'd myself much in conversing upon religious subjects with them. Cross’d Elkhorn R.
W. 28 To Saml. Wares, Woodford Co: to dinner remained hers until Th. Morng.
T. 29 To Frankfort, Franklin Co: stoped and had our Horses fed and procceded to Wm. Wests to dinner, who lives 2 ½ m. below Frankfort upon the Ky. R. and occupies a most beautiful and commanding site. The land from Frankt. to Wests is thin and broken. Remained at [at] Wests until Sun morng. Find him and his sons remarkably kind and his daughter Catherine sociable and interesting.
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May, 1830
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S.2 Left Wests call'd at Methodist Ch. In Frankfort, found there was no preaching and proceeded to Willis Blantons to dinner, where we remained all night.
M. 3 To Saml. Wares, spent a few moments and proceeded to Versales, Woodford Co. Cigars 36 ½ dinner .50 Returned in the evening to Wares.
T. 4 Started to Owen in company with Ellis, James Ware and Nancy Ware. Call'd by W. Blantons, who was to have accompanied us in order to point out to me the lines corners ? of a trace of Land in Owen belonging to my father. He had, however absented himself. Thence to Wests for Capt. Beadles- thence we all started, but had proceeded but a mile or two before (as the ? said) the road came jam up and we were all completely lost, after a litle we straightened, and fell into the main road leadinf from Frankfurt to Owenton, and presentally we were in a most awful shower of wind and rain- gave whip, and in a little time were housed in a Log Cabbin; where we remained several hours and in the evening returned to ?Mrs. Bacons, about 2 m. back, where we remained during the night and spent an ? time.
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Miss Bacon (and old maid) seem's to be in high life and full of fun. Altho full of chat myself, I permitted her to indulge her ? and consequently humored her to a fraction.
W. 5 Left Mrs. Bacons and proceeded to Smiths, Owen. H feed---12 ½
T. 6 Thence through Owenton to Mr. Bonds who married the sister of Beadles wife and is also the relation of Ellis and myself. Left Beadles and Ellis at Bonds, and proceeded to ? Bullocks. My former Ky. Acquaintance, who had since maried the daughter of S Ware.
T. 6 Returned to Bonds- went to preaching to day- returned to Bonds and spent the night
F. 7 To Bullocks again and spent the night
S. 8 From Bullocks to Bonds to Breakfast. Thence started with Capt. Beadles, Ellis, James Ware and others to view and trace of Land in Owen belonging to my father. We are joined to day by Blanton who has been for several years my Fathers agent in Ky. Beadles' object in viewing the Land is: if he likes, to purchase it of me. at 2 oclock left the company and proceeded with James ware to Mrs. Bacons where we spend the night.
S. 9 To ? Wares to breakfast, to day go to preaching heard a sermon by-Faulkner.
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From the there words, "And ye are not ye own" ? so soon as I saw the speaker I knew that I had seen him elsewhere, but could not for some time remember where, at length, however, I perfectly recollected that I saw him but the yr. before in Va where he cut very many ? shines, and about whom there were several ugly reports. Upon inquiring, I found these reports substantially correct. Returned to S Wares and spent the night.
M. 10 To Lexington to dinner at my relations. Mrs Lucy Gatewood where I remained all night- this evening right after Tea with Cousins Anne Gatewood and Francis Leathers from the neighborhood of Cincinnatti to Mr Mathews, where we remained until 9 o'clock, enjoying ourselves either in listening to the soft note of the flute blown by Mr Mathews or walking in his delightful garden. Returned again to Mrs. Gatewoods
T. 12 Left Lexington in company with Mrs. Gatewood, to visit Mrs. Stephenson our joint relative. Expences for H in Lexington 50 Returned in evening to Mrs. G and spent the night. Cijars in Lexingotn---12 ½
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W. 13 From Lexington to ?
T. 14 To W. Blantons. Thence to Frankfort. Had the pleasure to day of viewing the inner parts of the State house which will be when completed, a splendid building. The plaistering of the Senate Chamber and Legislative Hall is beautifully formed into square, eliptical and other figures. The interior of which is beautifully and tastily cut into ? leaves. Returned in evening with James Ware to his father ? Ware. Cloth for riding breeches---3.00 Taylor for making do---1.75
F. 15 Go a fishing in company with ? Ware, spent the day upon the bank of the Ky. R and catch nothing
S. 16 Similar employment and similar luck
S. 17 Went to preaching, heard a short discourse by Father Hickman while seated in his chair, and injury sustained by a fall from his H. prevented him standing. He was followed by- Faulkner, from these words, "It is appointed unto men once to die"-retun'd after sermon to L Wares.
M. 18 To Frankfort. H shoeing---.75
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While in Frankt to day, took an ? of the courses and distances of Land deeded by Eakin to my father, intending to survey and ? ? the land. For ? ? ? Clerck---25
T. 19 To Blantons wishing the company of James Ware. B. and I conclude not to start to Owen till evening- He arives and we are prepar'd to start when up rides Dr. Porter and Lady from Tenessee. B. insists on the postponment of our trip till morning and I agree after much reluctance.
W. 20 We set off ? on the Land and in company with Squire Wingate, commence the survey. run 1 ½ lines and go to Wingates to spend the night. Find the Squire ? standing he is Senator and will it is said become a candidate for Congress? living in a plain hewed log house. The planks of his loft being laid so as to admit of a free circulation of air- indeed a mouse or a sizeable rat when in a hurry to visit the lower apartments, might very easily make his descent this. most of these f???ures, without going the trackous round of the stair steps or dangerously scraping its sides- The Old Lady(the Squire's Wife) we found in countering pretty buisily a fine looking stocking.
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But to see the Squire's two daughters, side by side, each with a foot upon the treadle of a Flax wheel, causing the wheel to move with almost inconcievable speed, and the Whirl to fill rapidly with spin thread, was an interesting and melting scene
T. 21 We return to complete the survey, Blanton presently leaves us in quest of his Compass, which he had left in the woods last evening-during his absence Wingate remarked, that we should presently be at Threakills? corner said I that is impossible we are all now about the middle of the 1000 survey, therefore no man can have a line ? near us- well sir said he, I know well that we are now in a few steps of Threakills? corner-how can that be said I- he replied the corner of the land which T. bot?: of Blanton, as the ? of yr. Father- is it possible, I replied, that B. has sold any of this land, certainly said he, some 8 or 10 yrs: ago than? been paid for it as long? – He seemed utterly astonished at my ignorance of the fact, ? said he ? his having mentioned it- ?, indeed sir, said I , it is our duty to detect vilany in any
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and every shape possible, and there is vilany here, for my father is perfectly unapprised of this fact- several now inform me that Blanton has told them, that he had transmitted to my father the A?t of sales in commonwealth paper and that he had written him in return, that he should only use the money he had sent him in firing his ?, being of no use in Va. I now begin to read the man, and find that he is perfectly im??ted with ?eality, having ? that he sold land to 3 different persons, ? “G & O Sheets” and “Threakill”___ It seems a little remarkable that altho. my father had employed my Uncle Ma? Wyatt while in Ky to attend to this fund ?- and had sent out S. A. G?y for that ? purpose, each should return reporting favourably of B.? the situation of the Land- he himself had gone out, was at Bs house ? ? ?, and returned unapprised of the sale Beadles upon seeing (8th of May) the house of Threakill, expressed some astonishment to Blanton that a mere Tenant should build so good a house his reply was, that T. was not required to pay money rent. but contra? in improvement, Beadles seems delighted with the idea of having so good a house to move into, provided he should purchase, and asks if there was a good
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spring convenient?- Blantons reply was, no, and that he thought T. much to blame for the location- Blanton no doubt feared that [feared that] some of the company might propose going to the spring, T. might make his appearance.
Beadles might begin to chat him about giving ? ? ? in case he should purchase, and thus the cat be let out of the wallet for I now find there is a first rate spring within a few steps of the house. Blanton had often written to my father that he had put upon his land several Tenants who were to occupy 5 yrs: build the necessary cabbins plant out an orchard, and clear a certain quantity of land, having the benefit of the land thus long, for their trouble ?, all which was very agreeable to my father, for not a foot of the land had been cleared when he purchased it. his object for some time had been to sell, and uncleared land would not sell___ Blanton returns with his compass and reports that he had lost the field notes, I understand this very well, he never intends that I shall see him again on the land, tho he proposes another time to complete the survey, and expresses great sorrow at
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having lost the field notes- I see he fears detection, and wishes to set away he however knows not the discovery I have made, we return to Wingate and at 3 o’clock Blanton J. Ware and I start for the neighborhood of Frankfort. After proceeding a mile or two, I proceed to question him as follows-
Blanton. Yes, Mr. Wyatt, but at such a reduced price, that I thought I should not be doing yr. Father justice to sell.
W. Who proposed purchasing and at what price?
B. Various persons and at various prices.
W. Did Mr. Threakill ever propose purchasing
B. Yes Mr. Wyatt. He did and we went so far as to draw an instrument of writing. But he finally begged off
W. Did Mr. Sheets ever express any anxiety to purchase a part?
B. Yes sir we had some little conversation on that subject, but he finally declined
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W. What part of the Land did Sheets seem desirous to own?
B. That part adjoining him
W. Tell me exactly, Mr. Blanton, how Sheets wished the lines to run
B. From the B-r-a-n-c-h_____
In uttering the last word his tongue seemed to cleave to the roof of his mouth so that with great difficulty he articulated it- indeed he was convulsed from head to foot, for he clearly saw from the close and particular manner in which I questioned him, that I had been introduced into the secrecy of his villany- he seemed to be confounded and wished to be alone, I accordingly indulged him and we travelled on until near Frankfort without passing a word one other interrogative however I proposed, which I have not mentioned after he had asserted that Threakill and Sheets declined purchasing. I remarked then you have never sold any part of this land.
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He replied, no, not a foot never a foot Mr. Wyatt has been sold
F. 22 Went with Capt Beadles and James Ware to his Father Saml. Wares where we found Robt. Ellis and spend the day
S. 23 Went to Owen attended by R. Ellis in order to obtain copies of ? given by Blanton to Threakill and Sheets, for money they had pd. Him for Land- I obtain some of the original recpts and take copies of the remainder, intending to present them to Blanton. Spend the night with Lewis Hardin? he being in fact the only Tenant upon my Fathers land.
S. 24 This morning find my horse quite lame. Blacksmith in Frankfort having pricked him in shoing. after breakfast we proceed to Squire Wingates, inform him of the lameness of my horse, and he with all the humility of a Blacksmith undertakes the removal of the shoe. The first nail drawn proves to be the one which had injured the horse, we therefore let the shoe remain. This evening go to Mr. Walker Garnetts and spend the night
M. 25 Go to Owenton in order to ascertain the co?
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of power of attorney given by my Father to Blanton, thinking to uncover the land he had sold, if not authorized by power of ? to sell-upon examination find the sale a valid one- return again to Garnetts, thence to Mr. Bonds and spend the night.
T. Walk to Liberty 3 M. return to Bonds to dinner
W. To Garnetts to breakfast, thence to Owenton to record powr. atty given me by my Father-paid clerk---1.25 by Wingates and Hardins to Wm. Wests-H.feed---12 ½
T. Thro Frankfort to Saml. Wares- To day visited the State Penitentiary, which contains anout 100 Cap-headed convicts
F. From Wares, to Blantons, find him from home and return to Wares
S. Knowing that Blanton takes every possible step to avoid seeing me, I determine to call at an unexpected hour and arrive at his house about eight, but fail in seeing him return. To Wares for breakfast. Accompanied James Ware to Mr. Hawkins whose daughter he intends addressing, the family being absent, we go to Blantons- he being ? from home we return to S. Wares
S. Go to Catholic Chapel in Scott Co. when we arrived Mass was over and the priest had delivered part of his discourse. That portion that I heard contained not one objectionable sentiment- here they have the full figure and form of Christ nailed to the cross.
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Returned to S. Wares- having witten my father to delay not one moment in revoking Blantons powr. atty, lest he might dispose of the remainder of the land, as he had secretly threatened to do, so soon as I should start to Missouri- and having adjusted every thing connected with [connected with] this matter as far as I could, Ellis and my self determine to prosecute our journey
M. 31 Leave S. Wares for Missouri, cross Ky river at mouth of Benson?, just below Frankt. Fer---6 ¼ thence to B… Shelby Co. H feed---12 ½ thence thro Shelbyville and Simmonsville to ? Woolfolks, Shelby Co. and spend the night. We had been ? to call here, having letters from Woolfolks friends in Va.
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June, 1830
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T.1
Thro Middleton to Louisville Jefferson Co. Toll gates---21 Jefferson is the most extensively level and beautiful Co. I have ever seen.
Land very rich. Louisville seems to be an industrious, thriving, business town. Bill in Louisville, dinner and H. feed---75 Visited the canal which is not yet completed,
its supposed cost is $1000000 Crossed the Ohio R at Louisville in a boat drawn by 6 horses. Fer---25 my horse seems not yet fully reconciled to ferry boats and water.
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Here we entered the state of Indianna.
Passed thro Albany, a little town on the banks of the Ohio, to the White house Floyd Co.- here we arrived after the family had gone to bed. Bill H feed and bed---12 ½
W. 2 Thro Greenville to McCallans, H? Co. to breakfast, Bill---31 ¼ We have as yet seen? But better? Wood? Land in Indianna-crossed Blue R. and passed thro Peoli- a little beyond and for several M. on this side Peoli the land is good-from McCallans to ? Orange Co. Bill---50 Crossed Lost R.
T. 3 To J.P.? Davis Marin Co. bill---31 ¼ how truly diverting? It is to see this man stepping about perfectly shoeless and sockless and to hear him ? about being the Sheriff of his Co.- Thro ? upon E fork of White R.- This is by far the handsomest stream I have ever seen- it is about 200 yds. Wide and as clear as chrystal- about ½ way across, its bed is covered with small stones of different hues, which glitter beautifully in the chrystal stream- the remaining ½ is of sollid smooth stone except here and there are f? resembling ? ?
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running up and down the stream. Arrive this evening in Washington, Davis Co.- this villa contains a few neat and tasty buildings, and is surrounded by a body of rich and beautiful land. Bill---62 ½
F. 4 To Bruceville- here we met with much difficulty in finding the Tavern and when we found it a Tavn. it was! At breakfast I had the pleasure of a peep at the coffee pot, tho seated on the floor. Unfortunately for it, it had lost its spout and the break thereby occasioned was remedied by the application of an old rag, which seemed not have known the wash. ? there many weeks. Notwithstanding this loss, the coffee pot was not to be given up, for the Old Lady happily discovered that the mouth would answer every purpose of a spout, and thus proceeded to dish out our coffee, yet not without moistening her floor largely with the liquid stimulant. Bill---25 This morng. Found much difficulty in fording Main White R. (about 200 yds. over) on account of the very great rapidity of the current. To day for the first time passed thro a prarie
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about 4 M. in width and 7 or 8 in length called the S? Prarie it is handsomely covered with rich grass 6 or 8 inches in height and occasionally intersparsed with pretty flowers, of various hues. it contains several families and an old Quaker town, and is surrounded with forrest land, its soil is sandy and quite rich. The corn fields to be seen in it occasionally, present a beautiful aspect, likewise the fat cows and fine horses.
Left the main road leading to Vincennes, a few M. Therefrom, leaving it to our left. Staid all night at Webbs who lives in one edge of an extensive P.?- here two old Ladies slept in the same room with Ellis and myself – their frames had not long been reposing upon the bed, before one of them arose and m ... as my ears told me, for my eyes saw not Bill---50
S. 5
From Webbs, Sullivan Co. Thro a small P. and thro ? upon the bank of the Wabash R. here we crossed the Wabash, a beautiful stream, I suppose 2 or 300 yds. over, and entered
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the state of Illinois
Fer---12 ½ soon entered a large P. reaching several M. from the R. and laying to our left, it is beautifully covered with grass 6 or 8 in. high. Traveled up the Wabash several M.- to Harrisons on Wabash to breakfast. Bill---2? Thro Darwin Clark Co. to ? bill---50 between Darwin on W. R. and ? found several creeks difficult of fording, at Big creek we unharnessed our horses and drove them over. Crossed ourselves upon some trees that had fallen together from each bank- rode to night till 9. this has been quite a wet day which lessened our enjoyment in traveling thro several beautiful extensive P.
S. 6 About 12 o’clock entered the Grand P. where it is 10 M over, tho to our right and left there was frequently nothing in the scope of our vision but sky and grass. We found in crossing 8 or 10 slashes from 20 to 50 yds. over, some of them 3 or 2 feet deep in mud and water, and were several times in severe storms of wind and rain.
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The staff of my umbrella had so swelled from Saturdays rain that it could not be let down, so that I had to carry it hoisted thro the P. which was very disagreeable the wind several times turning it wrong side out and finally breaking one of its ribs.
When about ½ way across, we rode to a mound in order to enjoy a more intensive view, and had the pleasure of seeing a few deer grazing and leaping about, tho. 1 or 2 M. off- this evening arrive at J.? Mitchels Clark Co. in the W. edge of this P.- the grass of which is 12 or 15 in. high and the ? thro it about 1 ft. wide. ? having left the main road near Vincennes has caused us to encounter many difficulties. We were induced? To do this by 3 Kentuckians who fell in with us a few M. This side of J. P. Davis (the sheriff)- Mitchel had gone from Ky. and was their acquaintance and we concluded that as we were travelling for pleasure and curiosity we could not be out of our way any where. Notwithstanding our difficulties we are well compensated?.
The scenery of the grand P. is ? grand I was so wrought upon, by the excessive blowing of the wind, the grandeur and ? of the view, the waving of the grass and the sudden flight of the P. Hen
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arising in droves near my feet with a noise like thunder, that I could not avoid loud repeated vociferations- we are rather uncomfortably situated at Mitchels- our clothes are all wet and we have no oppr. to dry them. This is quite a new settlement, and the people are just like persons of the same family- going into each others cabbins without ceremony or formality. The neighbors are constantly pouring into the Mitchels cabbin- standing between us and the fire and seem to feel themselves at home and know no better. T hey are however a harmless inoffensive people. We have to make a pen for our horses as a substitute for a stable, and are quite uneasy lest they get out to night. They have only to eliminate the fence and are immediately in an ? range of thousands and multiplied thousands of ? of ?
M. 7 Quite a wet day and we spend it with friend Mitchel- fired? The Old Man a Cumberland Presbyterian, a ? man and a warm friend to the Methodists- the people in this settlement seem generally religious and among them many Methodists- their houses are located in the edge of the P. and very near each other
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T. 8 Find ourselves uncomfortably situated having no map and seeing no person who can give us any account whatever of the ? out of the settlement- Mitchel however at least recollected a trace or furrow which has been run by ? of the Legislature from ? to Springfield. Springfield is in that portion of the state which we wish to visit ?. The Sangamo Country, so call’d- we hesitate to retrace our steps and determine to go on- propose? To pay our bill, but Mitchel refuses to accept. He points out to us the supposed course of the furrow- directs us too be exceedingly careful in keeping in view a certain rise in forrest land which he thought was on the other side of the furrow- stating if we got lost it might not be well with us. We journey on several M. Thro the P. without a path or trace of any description until we reach the above mentioned furrow, which we hailed with glad hearts. Crossed Brush? creek and Ambro? R. and ? or Kaskaskia?. Traveled thro a brandh of the P. (about 15 M. over) to Shaw Clark Co. Bill---37 ½ When we reached Shawn found 2 travellers there and here we had it just before supper 4 other travelers came up
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so that the whole of us (8 in no.) were compellable to lodge in this extensive Inn, about 12 ft. sq. and furnished as follows ? Two beds (or something distantly resembling Beds) one Fiddle, a French horn and about thirty candles strung thro the neck and hung in a corner. The chimney to this building was full 6 ft. high and nothing under. It was hard to tell which vented more smoke, its upper or lower ?. I know nothing of the quantity which went above, but enough at least descended and circulated in the room to change ? the complexion? of my eyes. Knowing nothing of the company present, I deem? it prudent to take my pistol to bed with me which was not loaded and in my saddle-bag, which I approached under the idea of getting out a ?- in the ? I take out my pistol and ammunition, go out behind the chimney and by means of the light reflecting thro its top, I succeeded in loading
W. 9 Inquire of Shaw where we shall breakfast, he informs me there is a house some 15 or 17 M. ahead
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but thinks from our appearance, we can hardly stomach a snack there, representing them as very dirty people. Alas thought I if you call them dirty who are already so much so yourself, the dependence is indeed a slim one, upon the strength of his assertion we pocket the remains of a ? of corn bread which had been left at supper From Shaws to Wilsons Macon? Co. H feed---6 ¼ find the description by Shaw of this household ? just one, therefore we ear not. From Wilsons to-Wilsons Macon Co. here for the first time for several days ? hay for our horses, having had nothing but corn- and here for the first time since last night we expect to eat, except that we that we breakfasted about 12 on our corn cake which looked very badly when exposed to the light, too much so indeed for Ellis’ stomach to admit much of it, he being a ? dispeptic, I therefore got a portion of his as well as my own. It is 9 o’clock and we are anxiously awaiting supper having travelled anout 40 M.
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Find this far the best house we have stoped at for a week. Bill---37 ½ The Prairies we have passed thro in this state are very rich-from 4 to 6 yoke of oxen are required to draw a plough which generally cuts 20 in. A person then follows with an axe, with which he makes a fissure in the furrow, in which he drops the corn and scraping it over with his foot ? onwards, the corn is then laid by and without being again troubled, makes about 50 to 60 ? per acre. This is the first yr. of ?ation. The crop is afterwards more abundant being ?
T. 10 To ? Sangamo Co. Bill---25 had a new shoe nailed on my horse which cost 3 bits, or----37 ½ Between the R. and Springfield lies I think the richest land I ever saw. The stalks of the last yrs. crop of corn were cut off about 1 ft. from the ground, the hills averaging about 4 stalks, which when ploughed up for corn again looked like large stumps grabbed? up by the roots.
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Springfield is rapidly improving and contains 8 or 900 inch ?
F. 11 To M? Sangamo Co. Here for the first time since leaving home, my horse refuses to eat and seems to be unwell. Thence thro Jacksonville Morgan Co. Bill---31 ¼ to Jacksons, 2 M. from the village and spent the night Bill---25
S. 12 To Uncle Walter Wyatts to breakfast 7 M. This is a most delightful part of the country, surpassed by none that I have seen. 4 yrs. ago Jacksonville was scarcely settled, now it contains several hundred inhabitants, and is rapidly improving
S. 13 This morning breakfast with Mr. Haines, who married Sally Wyatt. After breakfast return to my Uncles and we all go to Camp Meeting, where we arrived just as the P. E. Peter Cartwright was delivering his ?, from Isaiah 3 ch. 10 and 11 v. “say ye to the righteous ?” and in ? the character of the righteous, gave us a history of the righteousness of and old Bro. as follows- he believed (from the prejudice of education) that the happiest moment ever experienced by a soul, must at ? the time of conversion
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and that to be happy he had only to recur to his former experience, knowing nothing of a growth in grace- finally however, his memory began to fail him, which drove him to the necessity of committing his experience to paper, which, when he became cold and lifeless, he would read over to his great edification, this being done he would replace it carefully in his desk-feeling one day unusually cold he unlocked his desk in quest of his old experience, but awful to relate a mischievous rat had dealt too widely with it so having so thoroughly masticated it, as to render it entirely illegible, which serious misfortune drove the old bro. to despair.
The conclusion the Preacher came to was this that such righteousness as this would not do, that we must have a new and daily experience, and that an experience of grace which might be borne off by a rat would prove too light in a coming day. I could not but feel most sensibly for the dear old soul, I fancied I saw him with slow step and dejected look
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approaching his desk, yet not without a glimmering hope beaming upon his ? ? and hoping that when he should embrace and ? the beloved scroll, which he fancied had so often caused him to hear the pleasing streams of glory How the clouds of night which had hung [hung] thick and heavy about him, might be dispersed by the ushering in of the morning sun. But ah! sad disappointment. Vile and mischievous vermin, how couldn’t thou thus deal with all aged man? I fancied I saw him with steady gaze for a moment look upon the lacerated fragments of what had once been his greatest stay- and with every feature of his disappointment and despair, leaving his unlocked desk, with distorted look and down cast eye, approach his elbow chair and suddenly seat himself, exclaiming Undone! Undone!
Cartwright is quite a smart man, was last yr. a member of the Legislature, and is again a candidate. This thing I cannot reconcile to my feelings-if a man be call’d of God to preach, let him enter the Lord’s Sanctuary
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and th? live and die. The Legislature hall is not his place. Is he not when call’d of God to preach the everlasting gospel, required to be instant? in season and out of season. To sow his seed in the morning and in the evening withhold not his hand. C. seems indeed to be a bold fearless and independent speaker, but nevertheless more or less of human nature abideth in every man, and tho reason the word of God and conscience might dictate to him the pursuance of a certain course, or the advancement of a certain doctrine during his sermon, if he believed it to be unpopular with the major part of his audience, to secure their friendship and their vote, he might be silent. Cartwright was succeeded by Carter, who delivered a warm ? at the close of which, there were several mourners. The meeting commenced on Friday and will adjourn on Tuesday. The have been a few convents, the meeting was pretty eagerly attended to day ? prevail’d. This camp ground is situated in one edge of the jersey Prairie. When public collection was taken up, gave---.50 This evening returned to my Uncles and spend the night.
M. 14 Go to James Wyatts to breakfast after which return to my Uncles and spend the night. This is in many respects a curious country, today my cousin George Wyatt commenced
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digging a well, about 9 o’clock, and by the hour of 3 we had an abundance of clear and pleasantly tasted water, which may be t? ? ? in almost any part of the country, and notwithstanding its con? On the surface, this is a dry country and the people healthy. But enter a house and you see a fine fat looking Matron with a ? of plump cheeked little ones about her, all hale and hearty
T. 15 From my Uncles thro Jacksonville and over “Mobie Star” 12 or 15 yds. wide just at ?, an insignificant little villa. Crossed some stream again at Have? Saw Mice, where we found much difficulty in approaching the ford, on account of the abruptness of the bank. Thence thro an extensive P. on Illinois R. in this P. found the “Green-head” or “Prairie Fly” very troublesome, crossed Illinois R, about 5 or 600 yds. wide. Ferriage---12 ½ Thence to Henmans Pike Co. here we saw a young wolf about 2 months old. From the repeated groaning of a young Lady who lay on the bed adjoining ours, and who was suffering much with a Whi? On her thumb, we had a poor nights rest. Bill---37 ½
W. 16 To Seeleys?, Pike Co. This morning had a full view of 2 deer, one of which was in 15 steps of us.
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Find the Muxhitois? This morning exceedingly troublesome. Bill---37 ½ Thence thro. Atlas (6 M. from Mississippi R.) where we were compelled to hire 2 pilots to conduct us about 3 M. first near Atlas they ferried us across a slue of the Mississippi R. and thence over several other slues and ?. There fellows walked 10 steps before us, thro the mud and water, until we arrived at an old bridge across a slue, over which they saw us safely and left us. Pd. Them about .50 apiece. For 2 or 3 M. before we reached the Mississippi R. we passed thro a P. containing the richest land I ever saw, the grass in many places being several inches higher than our horses backs. In this P. saw only 1 deer. An immense body of land is taken in by this slue (running out of, and again into the M.R.) but being annually overflowed is too sickly to be inhabited. Crossed the Mississippi R. at Louisianna a little town on the Missouri side of the R. which is here about a M. wide Fer---50 here we
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entered the state of Missouri
and passed thro Louisianna Pike Co. to Ellisons Pike Co. Bill---43
T. 17 To Mayr. Smilies. Fare better than usual. Bill---37 ½ pd. for nailing on and finding old H. shoe---25 Crossed Duiver? R. passed thro Troy and reached Clarks. At this place in 1812 was built a fort call’d Clarks fort. Some of the picketing and one Block house yet remain. Bill---50 here we heard ?drollery of maneuvering, fiddling & singing in high voice?, after we had been here a ? hour. a Negro fellow of independent look & gait , stepped into the ?p in which we were ? and singing as he journeyed, p? on to our adjoining, slipped under a bed, hauled out a box containing a fiddle rubbed his bow on some rosin,& thus with Lord like? ? on to the kitchen& began the frolicksome note. to say the least of it, i thought this lad had things to learn & unlearn
F. 19 To Wells, St Charles Co: Bill ______ Thence to Breckinridge Bill ____________ we arrived here late & kept the Old Lady stirring until 10 before we were ready for bed.
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This was more than her Irish could stand.
... MUCH MORE TO BE TRANSCRIBED ...
Onto St Louis and a trip to Clark's Indian Museum (pdf), the last stop before venturing into Indian Territory for which you had to obtain a pass.